Kwemakore mashoma apfuura, Kingston aona boom mumaresitorendi matsva.Kune chaiwo ramen noodles, poke ndiro, dumplings, Turkish takeaway, huni-pizza, donuts, uye, hongu, chikafu chitsva chekuAmerica.Maresitorendi eAsia uye zvitoro zvetaco zvakawanda.Asi kune vakawanda, kusanganisira blond, munyori akaberekerwa kuMumbai asingatsananguriki uye anogara, kushayikwa kweresitorendi yeIndia - kunyange yebindu rakasiyana-siyana, chicken tikka, smorgasbord, nezvimwe zvakadaro - chinhu chikuru.Asi chekupedzisira, chekupedzisira, chikafu cheIndia (uye chikafu chekudya) pakupedzisira chave paBroadway mudhorobha reKingston nekuda kwekuvhurwa kweCalcutta Kitchen.
Aditi Goswami akakurira kunze kweCalcutta mukupera kwe70s uye 80s uye kicheni yemhuri yaive nhevedzano yezviitiko kubva pakudya kwemangwanani kusvika pakati pemasikati, kubva tii yemasikati kusvika kumabiko makuru emhuri.Kunyange zvazvo baba vake vakanga vari mugadheni anoshingaira, kicheni chainyanyova chaambuya vake.“Handizive hupenyu ndisina kubika.Kana ukasabika, haudye, ”akadaro Goswami nezveIndia nguva yechikafu chisati chavepo chisati chatorwa, apo moto waive uchiri moyo wemba.“Ambuya vangu vaiva mubiki mukuru.Baba vangu vaisabika mazuva ese, asi vaive mupfuhwira chaiwo.Akatenga zvese zvinoshandiswa uye akateerera zvakanyanya kutsva, mhando uye mwaka.Iye naambuya vangu Ndiye akandidzidzisa kutarisa chikafu, kufunga nezvekudya.Uye, zvechokwadi, nzira yekubika zvokudya.
Achishanda nesimba mukicheni, Goswami akaita mabasa akadai sokupepeta pizi kubva pazera remakore mana, uye unyanzvi hwake nemitoro zvakaramba zvichikura kusvikira ava nemakore 12, paakakwanisa kugadzira zvokudya zvakakwana.Sababa vake, akava nechido chokurima."Ndinofarira kurima nekubika chikafu," anodaro Goswami, "chii chinozove chii, mashandisirwo ezvigadzirwa uye mashandisirwo azvinoitwa mundiro dzakasiyana."
Mushure mekuroora pa25 uye kutamira kuUnited States, Goswami akaunzwa kune tsika yekuendesa chikafu kuburikidza nenzvimbo yebasa yeAmerica.Nekudaro, anoramba akavimbika kutsika yake yekubikira kumba kumaruwa Connecticut, achigadzirira mhuri yake nevaenzi chikafu mune yakajairika, yechinyakare Indian maitiro ekugamuchira vaeni.
“Ndagara ndichifarira kufara nekuti ndinoda kudyisa vanhu, kwete kuita mabiko makuru uye kungokoka vanhu kuzodya,” akadaro.Kana kuti kunyange vari pano kuzotamba nevana, vape tii nechimwe chinhu chokudya.”Zvikumbiro zveGoswami zvinogadzirwa kubva pakutanga.Shamwari nevavakidzani vakafara chaizvo.
Saka, achikurudzirwa nevezera rake, Goswami akatanga kugadzira uye kutengesa dzimwe chutneys pamusika wevarimi weConnecticut mu2009. Mumavhiki maviri, akatanga Calcutta Kitchens LLC, kunyange zvazvo achiri kutaura kuti haana chinangwa chekutanga bhizinesi.Chutneys vakapa nzira yekumisikidza sosi, nzira yekudimbudzira kugadzira chikafu chechokwadi cheIndia chine zvishoma zvigadzirwa.Aya ese magadzirirwo ezvaanobika kumba, uye mabikirwo anowanikwa pasina kurasikirwa kwekunaka.
Mumakore gumi nematatu kubva Goswami yatanga Calcutta Kitchens, Goswami mutsara wemachutneys, stews uye spice musanganiswa wakura kusvika pakutengesa nyika yese, kunyangwe nzira yake yekutanga uye yaanofarira yehukama neveruzhinji yagara iri misika yevarimi.Pamusika wake wekutengesera, Goswami akatanga kutengesa chikafu chaakagadzirira pamwe chete nechikafu chake chemumagaba, achinyanya kuita zvevegan nechikafu chemuriwo."Ini handife ndakazvipedza - ndinoona kudiwa chaiko," akadaro."Chikafu cheIndia chakanakira vanodya miriwo uye vegans, uye kunyange gluten-isina, hapana chikonzero chekuyedza kuve akasiyana."
Nemakore ese aya echiitiko, pfungwa yekuvaka chitoro yakatanga kuibva kumwe kuseri kwepfungwa dzake.Makore matatu apfuura, Goswami akatamira kuHudson Valley uye zvese zvakawira munzvimbo.“Shamwari dzangu dzese dzevarimi pamusika dzinobva mudunhu rino,” vakadaro.“Ndinoda kugara kwavanogara.Nharaunda yeko inokoshesa chaizvo chikafu ichi.”
KuIndia, "tiffin" inoreva kudya kwemasikati kwakareruka, kwakaenzana netii yemasikati kuUK, merienda kuSpain, kana chikafu chisinganyanyi kunakidza chabva kuchikoro kuUS - chikafu chenguva pfupi pakati pekudya kwemasikati uye kudya kwemanheru kunogona kutapira.Izwi iri rinoshandiswa zvakare nenzira yakafanana kutsanangura mashandisiro anoita munhu wese kubva kuvana vechikoro kusvika kuvakuru vekambani muIndia anoshandisa midziyo yesimbi isina tsvina kurongedza chikafu chavo nemakamuri akasiyana endiro dzakasiyana.(Muma megacities, cheni yakakura yezvekudya mumotokari dzechitima nemabhasikoro zvinounza chikafu chitsva chinopisa kubva kukicheni yekumba zvakananga kunzvimbo dzebasa - OG yekuendesa chikafu kuGrub-Hub.)
Goswami haafariri kudya kukuru uye anosuwa chikamu ichi chehupenyu muIndia."MuIndia, unogona kugara uchienda kunzvimbo idzi kuti uwane tii uye chikafu chinokurumidza," akadaro.“Kune madhongi nekofi, asi handidi nguva dzose zino rinotapira, sangweji hombe kana ndiro hombe.Ndiri kungoda kasnack, chimwe chinhu pakati."
Nekudaro, haafanire kufunga kuti anogona kuzadza gaka muAmerican cuisine.Goswami, aigara zvachose mumisika yevarimi yeChord neKingston, akatanga kutsvaga zvekudya zvekutengesa.Shamwari yakamusuma kumuridzi we448 Broadway muKingston, kwaimbove Artisan Bakery."Pandakaona nzvimbo iyi, zvese zvaitenderera mumusoro mangu zvakabva zvawira panzvimbo," anodaro Goswami - tiffins, mutsetse wake, Indian food ingredients.
"Pandakafunga kuvhura muKingston, handina kuziva kuti pano pakanga pasina resitorendi yeIndia," Goswami akadaro achinyemwerera.“Ndakanga ndisingadi kuva piyona.Ndangogara pano uye ndinoda Kingston saka ndafunga kuti zvichanaka.Zvaiita sekunge zviri kuitwa panguva chaiyo uye munzvimbo chaiyo.
Kubva pakavhurwa muna Chivabvu 4, Goswami anga achipa chikafu chekumba cheIndia mazuva mashanu pasvondo muchitoro chake pa448 Broadway.Vatatu vavo vaive venyama uye vaviri vaive nyama.Asina chikafu, anobika chero chaanoda zvichienderana nemamiriro ekunze uye zvemwaka.“Yakafanana nekicheni yaamai vako,” Goswami akadaro.“Unopinda wobvunza kuti, 'Chii chekudya manheru ano?Ndinoti, “Ndabika izvi,” mozodya.“Muimba yekubikira yakashama, unoona Goswami iri kubasa, uye zvakafanana nekukweva chigaro patafura yekudyira yemunhu ivo vachiramba vachicheka nekuzunza nekukurukura pamafudzi avo.
Zvigadzirwa zvezuva nezuva zvinoburitswa kuburikidza ne Instagram Nhau.Zvichangobva kudyiwa zvinosanganisira huku biryani uye koshimbier, inotonhora yekuSouth Indian saladi, googni, pea yakaoma Bengali curry inopihwa tamarind chutney nemabhanzi anotapira."Madhishi mazhinji echiIndia imhando yechipfuwo," Goswami akadaro."Ndosaka zvichinaka zvirinani mangwana."paratha Frozen flatbreads akadai.Kune zvakare inopisa tii uye inotonhora lemonade yekutapira dhiri.
Majari emasosi anopisa uye chutneys kubva kuKolkata's cuisine anoisa madziro enzvimbo inopenya uye ine mhepo yekona, pamwe chete nemabikirwo akanyatsogadziriswa.Goswami anotengesawo mastaples emuIndia, kubva kumiriwo yakabikwa kusvika kune ubiquitous basmati mupunga, marudzi akasiyana-siyana edhal (lentils) uye zvimwe zvakaoma-ku-kuwana-zvinonhuhwirira zvakakosha sehing (asafetida).Pamberi nepakati penzira yemugwagwa pane matafura ebistro, zvigaro zvemaoko uye tafura refu yeruzhinji uko Goswami anotarisira rimwe zuva kuve nekirasi yekubika yeIndia.
Kwegore rino zvirinani, Goswami acharamba achishanda kuKingston Farmers' Market, pamwe nemisika yepamwedzi kuLarchmont, Phenicia nePark Slope.“Zvandinoziva nezvandinoita zvaisazofanana kana ndisina ushamwari hwenguva dzose hwandiinahwo nevatengi, uye mhinduro dzavo dzinopesvedzera zvandinoita uye ruzivo rwandinopa,” akadaro.“Ndinotenda zvikuru neruzivo rwandakawana kubva kumusika wevarimi uye ndinoona sekuti ndinofanira kuramba ndichienderera mberi nekubatana uku.”
Labels: restaurant, indian food, tiffin, indian takeaway, kingston restaurant, kingston restaurant, specialty market, indian grocery store, kolkata cuisine, aditigoswami