We’ve kept paperwork to a minimum and protected your watch as much as possible so you can stop worrying about your watch and focus on enjoying it.
Each of your watches is insured for up to 150% of the insured value (up to the total value of the policy).
We’ve kept paperwork to a minimum and protected your watch as much as possible so you can stop worrying about your watch and focus on enjoying it.
Each of your watches is insured for up to 150% of the insured value (up to the total value of the policy).
We’ve kept paperwork to a minimum and protected your watch as much as possible so you can stop worrying about your watch and focus on enjoying it.
Each of your watches is insured for up to 150% of the insured value (up to the total value of the policy).
One of the biggest news for Grand Seiko in 2020 is the release of not just a new watch or even a new movement, but a new escapement – something that rarely happens in watchmaking, one that you can count on your fingers every century. one hand. The new escapement, dubbed the Grand Seiko Dual Impulse Escapement for short, debuted in the $43,000 limited-edition 60th Anniversary model in gold, but it’s clear the new mechanism will outperform the collection in the Hi-Finals. Grand Seiko now introduces the movement in a new Hi-Beat watch: SLGH005 White Birch steel with a birch-bark patterned dial and 44GS-style case. This is a regular production model, not a limited edition, and costs $9,100.
Right now this watch is a bit frustrating for me because the pattern of the dial and how it integrates with the other elements of the dial and the overall design really screams “get to know me in person”. enticing Man, like their cousin the Snowflake, this is a watch to be fully appreciated (more than usual). Even by Grand Seiko standards, these indexes are very good. They have the same configuration as the 60th Anniversary LE and the hands have the same design. The minute and second hands are crafted from classic Grand Seiko steel, the minute hand is sharp-edged, and the second hand is crafted from blued steel. The longitudinal notch on the hour hand is in harmony with the corresponding notch on the hour markers and serves as an additional visual aid for a clear reading of the time.
The dial, of course, is irresistibly reminiscent of snowflakes, but the texture differs from snowflakes in a pronounced crust-like accent. It’s actually one of the more literal interpretations of natural inspiration I think we’ve seen in Grand Seiko, although it’s still abstract enough that you wouldn’t have to if GS didn’t explicitly call it “Birch”. To set a specific association yourself.
The legendary Grand Seiko “Zaratsu” finish is as eye-catching as ever. The 44GS case is available in many different interpretations of different metals – I think the gold is very pleasing, and the crisp edges and alternating matte and polished surfaces give it a bullion quality. But in a way, the natural home of Zaratsu’s polish is steel, as are the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and other watches (Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Girard-Perregaux Laureato) that themselves seem to be mostly steel. One element of the 44GS case that I’ve always admired is the use of drilled lugs – the bracelet can be easily changed to a strap and vice versa, it’s a great added value for a luxury watch, I wish other manufacturers could emulate Of course it’s a bit pragmatic, maybe , even proletarian, a touch in luxury watches, but the intersection of luxury and utility has always been Grand Seiko’s home address.
The standard Grand Seiko Hi-Beat movement is the 9S85 movement. As always, The Naked Watchmaker’s teardown of the 9S85 is the best visual introduction to the movement, and his impressions of the movement are expert and quote-worthy:
“The overall design of the movement and case is consistent with the goal of creating a reliable and accurate watch designed for a long service life. The rugged two-piece stainless steel case features one of the strongest case tubes ever made. All Gems The movement is all wheel centered on rubies. The resulting movement effectively combines vintage solid construction with modern manufacturing techniques and alloys.”
However, the new Hi-Beat 9SA5 movement is clearly positioned as an improvement in technique and finish. In addition to the new escapement, which is supposed to be more effective than standard levers, the 9SA5 is thinner. The 9S85 measures 28.4mm x 5.99mm while the 9SA5 measures 31.0mm x 5.18mm. And the power reserve is 80 hours, compared to 55 hours for the 9S85. The finishing of the movement has also been taken to a new level, with the 9S85 displaying the classic, flawless precision machining characteristics of all Grand Seiko movements, while the 9SA5 has a more pronounced polished counterbore.
The 9S85 has sharp transitions from the bridge and cleat surface to the carefully polished vertical sides, but the 9SA5 has real angles and a skeletonized rotor that allows you to see more movement than the stock 9S85 rotor. Other improvements include loose springs, adjustable mass balance, supercoil balance spring, balance bridge for better fine tuning and shock resistance, and a retuned running train from the 9C85 version that allows for a flatter design and 15% reduction. in height has a lot to do with it.
Birch Bark SLGH005 (I like the name to be official, although I don’t know if it dampens the almost irresistible desire of GS fans to give the model its own name) seems to represent something broader associated with Grand Seiko fans than Breathtaking , but a very expensive limited edition has been in the spotlight this year.
This is slightly higher than the 9S86 watch with 9S85 and GMT and costs just under $6,000 ($5,800 for the SBGH201). However, by spending a little more, you will get a first production model with a new movement, finer workmanship, a flatter design, a significantly increased power reserve, and a streamlined movement design that is competitive with other sports watch movements currently in production, such as the Escapement. Rolex Chronergy and Omega Co-Axial models.
I can argue a little with the price, but as with the SBGZ005 I just wrote about, the cost is a little high compared to the competition, but certainly not unreasonable. In addition, the birch bark offers an extraordinary performance of the visible elements of the watch. I’m still hoping for a custom bracelet, though I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s in the works (I think it’s one of the few barriers to closing a deal for many potential GS customers). Historically, this is an important watch for Grand Seiko, marking an important milestone in the development of the company.
Grand Seiko SLGH005 Birch Bark, Grand Seiko Heritage Collection: Zaratsu polished stainless steel case and bracelet, 40mm x 11.7mm case, birch bark dial, sapphire crystal case back. The movement, in-house Grand Seiko caliber 9SA5, Hi-Beat, dual-pulse escapement provides pulses directly in one swing and indirectly in the other. Frequency, 36,000 vibrations per hour, maximum speed deviation +5/-3 seconds per day, adjustable mass balance with free spring with helical balance spring, under the balance bridge, 47 jewels. Three-piece stainless steel clasp with push button. Price $9100, details at Grand Seiko.
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