Welcome to Quill & Pad’s Predictions for the 2022 Early Geneva Grand Prix of Horlogerie (GPHG) where the team picks favorites and explains why.
The Calendar & Astronomy category emphasizes that mechanical watches contain at least one calendrical and/or astronomical complication (e.g. date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, composite moon phase indicator, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are allowed.
DM: This is one of my favorite categories because I love astronomical intricacies like moon phases and star charts. Combine this with calendar complications and you get something straight forward, because calendar complications are often needed for astronomical complications, but each one serves a very different purpose.
The astronomical complexities are poetic, more emotional than practical. The calendar complication is just the opposite: a very functional and useful time management complication that can appeal to completely different people. Since the category does not indicate what should be valued, but simply describes what fits into the category, we subjectively value much more than what and why.
BS: Reading is worth it! While at first glance I was prepared to be a little disappointed with the finalists in this category, some research on each of the finalists revealed impressive designs and impressive manufacturers.
ED: Actually, Gary, I was so impressed that it was hard for me to pick a winner. Can we accept a coin toss?
IS: Gary, I too was initially disappointed that this group didn’t have a clear top watch, but further research has led me to share Elizabeth’s dilemma that it’s hard to pick a winner.
MG: This is one of my favorite GPHG categories, despite the fact that I’m not a big fan of date functions on watches in general, and the moon is of no practical importance to me. However, seeing such complications, applied with care and creativity, makes my watchmaker’s heart beat faster!
JM: I can’t help but be torn as the Arnold & Son Luna Magna is one of my most favorite moon phase watches that I’ve ever seen. JM: I can’t help but be torn as the Arnold & Son Luna Magna is one of my most favorite moon phase watches that I’ve ever seen. JM: Я не могу не быть разорванным, так как Arnold & Son Luna Magna — одни из моих самых любимых часов с фазами Луны, которые я когда-либо видел. JM: I can’t help but be torn as the Arnold & Son Luna Magna is one of my favorite moon phase watches I’ve ever seen. ДМ: Arnold & Son Luna Magna — одни из моих любимых часов для измерения фаз Луны, которые я когда-либо видел, и я не могу не растеряться. JM: The Arnold & Son Luna Magna is one of my favorite moon phase watches I’ve ever seen, and I can’t help but get lost. It’s the perfect backlight for both moon phase and moon phase itself, making it a staple for all of us moon phase fans out there.
I loved it when it first came out and I think it was one of the top two hits in the same category last year. But just like last year, I think the other work is more deserving of the top awards. Now, in its second year of nomination, it’s more of a variant than an original, and it’s losing another tie or two. I love the giant glowing moon that first appeared in this version, and pairing it with meteorites is always a cool aesthetic. But given the competition, again, I don’t know if she has what it takes to win the title. I know the jury will love it, but it’s not enough.
MG: Not the only 3D moon phase sensor on the market, but still one of the best. In platinum with a meteorite dial, it is simply irresistibly Arnold & Son at its finest. In platinum with a meteorite dial, it is simply irresistibly Arnold & Son at its finest. Платиновые часы с метеоритным циферблатом — это просто непреодолимое воплощение Arnold & Son во всей красе. The platinum meteorite watch is simply irresistible Arnold & Son in all its glory.铂金材质搭配陨石表盘，堪称亚诺表(Arnold & Son) 的精品。铂金材质搭配陨石表盘，堪称亚诺表(Arnold & Son) Платиновый материал с метеоритным циферблатом можно назвать бутиком Arnold & Son. The platinum material with the meteorite dial can be called an Arnold & Son boutique. Although I don’t think he will be the champion in this category because of the high competition. This is the watch I would buy with my own money.
ED: This is one of my favorite watch collections in recent years and it’s really not my style to object to it. However, in the GPHG calendar and astronomy category for 2021, the jury voted against the original Luna Magna with an aventurine dial in favor of Christian van der Klaau Eise Eising’s Planetarium.
Well, well, I heard you: who do they think would vote no in this category? And I agree. But it makes me doubt that this piece is as respected in the wider watchmaking community as I am, so I think the other guy might come out on top. Even the octagonal meteorite dial, which is coated with a sand-coloured PVD coating, showing a particularly beautiful so-called Weidmann cross, glows even when the sun begins to set and the moon suddenly dominates the night sky: both Cachalong models have an opal watch face and an opal meniscus, uncovered by a rare meteorite, exceptionally bright, emitting a stunningly bright blue glow in low light conditions. I do wonder what line extension those creative minds at Arnold & Son will come up with next! I do wonder what line extension those creative minds at Arnold & Son will come up with next! Интересно, какое расширение линейки придумают эти творческие умы из Arnold & Son в следующий раз! I wonder what kind of line extension these creative minds at Arnold & Son will come up with next!我确实想知道Arnold & Son 的那些富有创造力的头脑接下来会想出什么产品线延伸！我确实想知道Arnold & Son Интересно, какие расширения линейки придумают эти творческие умы из Arnold & Son в следующий раз! I wonder what line extensions these creative minds at Arnold & Son will come up with next!
GG: With the Luna Magna Platinum, Arnold & Son presents another variation on the big moon theme, this time with a meteorite dial and half-moon. GG: With the Luna Magna Platinum, Arnold & Son presents another variation on the big moon theme, this time with a meteorite dial and half-moon. БС: В модели Luna Magna Platinum компания Arnold & Son представляет еще одну вариацию на тему большой луны, на этот раз с метеоритным циферблатом и полумесяцем. BS: With the Luna Magna Platinum, Arnold & Son introduces another big moon variation, this time with a meteorite dial and crescent moon. ГГ: В модели Luna Magna Platinum компания Arnold & Son представляет еще одну вариацию на тему большой луны, на этот раз с метеоритным циферблатом и формой полумесяца. GG: With the Luna Magna Platinum, Arnold & Son introduces another big moon variation, this time with a meteorite dial and crescent shape. Pretty good work, but not as inventive or new as the best watches in this class.
IS: I’m a big fan of the Arnold Luna Magna and this platinum version is pretty bright, but I don’t think it’s as bright as the original Luna Magna with aventurine dial and I doubt the jury would look for anything else. for the winner.
Further reading: Arnold & Son Luna Magna and Luna Magna Ultimate 1: Marble, Moon and Glam
Quick Facts Arnold & Son Luna Magna PlatinumCase: 44 x 15.9 mm, platinumMovement: manually wound Caliber A&S1021, 90-hour power reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequencyFunctions: hours, minutes; Quick Facts Arnold & Son Luna Magna PlatinumCase: 44 x 15.9 mm, platinumMovement: manually wound Caliber A&S1021, 90-hour power reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequencyFunctions: hours, minutes; Краткая информация Arnold & Son Luna Magna PlatinumКорпус: 44 x 15,9 мм, платинаМеханизм: калибр с ручным заводом A&S1021, запас хода 90 часов, частота 21 600 полуколебаний в час/3 Гц Функции: часы, минуты; Brief information Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum Case: 44 x 15.9 mm, platinum Movement: Caliber with manual winding A&S1021, power reserve 90 hours, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour/3 Hz Functions: hours, minutes;亚诺表Luna Magna 铂金表壳：44 x 15.9 毫米，铂金机芯：手动上链机芯A&S1021，90 小时动力储存，21,600 vph/3 赫兹频率功能：小时、分钟； Watch Luna Magna Platinum Case: 44 x 15.9mm, Platinum Movement: Manual Upper Chain Movement A&S1021, 90 Hours Power Reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz Frequency Functions: Hours, Minutes; Платиновый корпус Arnold & Son Luna Magna: 44 x 15,9 мм, платиновый механизм: калибр с ручным заводом A&S1021, запас хода 90 часов, частота 21 600 пк/ч/3 Гц, функции: часы, минуты; Arnold & Son Luna Magna platinum case: 44 x 15.9 mm, platinum movement: manual winding caliber A&S1021, power reserve 90 hours, frequency 21,600 p/h/3 Hz, functions: hours, minutes; Moon phase, Moon age (reverse) Limited edition: 28 pieces Price: 71,000 Swiss francs
ED: I must confess that I don’t know anything about this watch other than that it was made by Dominique Renault and friends. I haven’t seen it and I don’t have any official information about it other than what’s on the GPHG page. It’s hard to judge a watch you don’t know much about beyond the most basic knowledge.
But this information includes the fact that it is a secular perpetual calendar watch – the third such watch in the history of wristwatches after Svend Andersen’s Secular Perpetual and Frank Muller’s Aeternitas Mega.
It’s amazing in itself, and I’m desperate to tackle that part first. But for now, it’s hard for me to keep these very busy hours out of my winner’s sight. Has anyone seen the time display?
MG: While I love the DRT and find its technical design very impressive, it’s too much. While the blue windows bring some order to the chaos ahead, there are too many elements vying for your attention. The case of a unique shape does not help in this matter either. This is a combination of many good things, but in my opinion they compete too much instead of achieving synergy.
IS: Well, I would rate the DRT Tempus Fugit as a rare secular perpetual calendar (and very compact) and double the score for Dominique Renault. I’d like to know more about the algorithm that predicts the wearer’s power reserve, but it’s hard to judge a watch without holding it in your hands and working with it. Judging by the images, the side of the dial looks busy. It’s definitely a watch to watch, but I don’t see the payoff here.
GG: Watch out for something special if Dominique Renault is involved! Such is the case with the DRT Tempus Fugit, which supplements the secular perpetual calendar with a “life reserve” indicator that counts down to the end of the owner’s life, and contains a chip with the owner’s DNA and a hidden informational reservation. For me, the art of timekeeping has everything to do with our awareness of our own mortality, so even though it’s a bit creepy, this complication piqued my interest. However, it’s hard to tell what the finished watch will look like based on the rendered images, and its visual design seems a bit random.
DM: The DRT Tempus Fugit watch is a watch that mechanically has everything it takes to win this category: an interesting and innovative perpetual secular calendar in a 39mm case with amazing pedigree and unique beauty. For this reason alone, I call it second in this category.
But I can’t help but feel that, judging by the photographs, this watch looks like the first full-fledged prototype of a recent watchmaker student who has yet to find the aesthetic of his design, and still has a few more years to flesh out the details that made it groundbreaking. watch. Obviously, the skill, talent and passion are there, but they need some work and a fair amount of feedback.
Considering the name associated with it, I’m a bit surprised, at the same time it actually makes sense. Incredible Renault watch concept, very machine oriented industrial design backed by the president of the Swiss Academy of Engineering and seemingly fresh prototype watch on stage. Very experienced and knowledgeable, but he lacks real cohesion, which I would call the best in this category.
Short description DRT Tempus Fugit Case: 39 x 10.6 mm, titanium Movement: hand-wound skeletonized, power reserve 80 hours, 18,000 vibrations per hour / 2.5 Hz Functions: hours, minutes, day, date, month, year , perpetual calendar, life reserve indicator Price: CHF 376,000
MG: What a beautiful watch! He has a confidence rarely seen in a watch. I’m assuming this is also necessary because the branding is barely visible and the details that make it recognizable as a perpetual calendar are hidden on the back. I’m torn between whether it’s the category winner or HYT, but I think Moser will get the top honors.
GG: I’ve always loved H. Moser & Cie’s approach to the instantaneous perpetual calendar, and for fans of the Streamliner look the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar should be a must. GG: I’ve always loved H. Moser & Cie’s approach to the instantaneous perpetual calendar, and for fans of the Streamliner look the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar should be a must. БС: Мне всегда нравился подход H. Moser & Cie к мгновенному вечному календарю, и для поклонников Streamliner Streamliner Perpetual Calendar должен быть обязательным. BS: I’ve always loved H. Moser & Cie’s take on the instant perpetual calendar, and for Streamliner fans, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar should be a must. GG：我一直很喜欢H. Moser & Cie 的瞬时万年历设计，对于喜欢Streamliner 外观的粉丝来说，Streamliner Perpetual Calendar 应该是必备品。 Moser & Cie Streamliner 外观的粉丝来说，Streamliner Perpetual Calendar 应该是必备品。 БС: Мне всегда нравился дизайн мгновенных вечных календарей H. Moser & Cie, и для поклонников стиля Streamliner Streamliner Perpetual Calendar должен стать обязательным атрибутом. BS: I’ve always loved the design of H. Moser & Cie’s instant perpetual calendars, and for fans of the Streamliner style, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar should be a must have. My taste is closer to the original, but I definitely don’t like anything about it.
DM: I’ve always loved Moser’s minimalist aesthetic, and achieving a complete perpetual calendar in that aesthetic is the genius of modern design. Then, when Moser created the new Streamliner collection, I loved the new aesthetic and sportiness of the brand’s familiar ultra-classic silhouettes.
But I admit, I think that some of the design decisions of the watch make the concept lack a well-defined direction, making it feel like it is trying to ride two worlds, unfortunately failing in either. The watch face is so busy and minimal that it seems completely ill-conceived, with occupied seconds markers on the outside and a tiny (barely visible at first glance) indication of the month, it doesn’t seem entirely committed to this design.
Because it’s not a chronograph, the clear markings on the bezel don’t make much practical sense, and the month hand seems out of proportion. I think it’s a good watch, but I think the design needs a time or two for the team to figure out if it’s really going to be a minimalist perpetual calendar or a sporty perpetual calendar with minimal indications. This does not mean that markings should be minimal or non-existent, it just means that putting a perpetual calendar mechanism in the Streamliner is not as easy as it sounds.
ED: While the understated visuals and functionality of Moser’s famous perpetual calendar remain intact in this new Streamliner, for some reason I don’t like it. I guess I need to see traces of the more important calendar feature to fully appreciate it – I know this watch isn’t designed for that.
IS: If you’re looking for a perpetual calendar, the Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar should be on your list. I like the simple power reserve indicator at 10 o’clock, the large date display, the short central month hand, and the gentle curves of the case. This Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is in my top 3 but I think it will pass.
Quick Facts H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Case: 42.3 x 11 mm, stainless steel Movement: hand-wound Caliber HMC 812, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency, power reserve minimum 168 hours; Quick Facts H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Case: 42.3 x 11 mm, stainless steel Movement: hand-wound Caliber HMC 812, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency, power reserve minimum 168 hours; Краткая информация H. Moser & Cie Streamliner с вечным календарем Корпус: 42,3 x 11 мм, нержавеющая сталь Механизм: Калибр HMC 812 с ручным заводом, частота 18 000 полуколебаний в час/2,5 Гц, запас хода не менее 168 часов; Brief information H. Moser & Cie Streamliner with perpetual calendar Case: 42.3 x 11 mm, stainless steel Movement: Caliber HMC 812 with manual winding, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour/2.5 Hz, power reserve of less than 168 hours; H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar 表壳：42.3 x 11 毫米，不锈钢机芯：手动上链Calibre HMC 812，18,000 vph/2.5 Hz 频率，动力储存至少168 小时； H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Case: 42.3 x 11 mm, stainless steel core: manual winding Caliber HMC 812, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency, power reserve at least 168 hours; H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Корпус: 42,3 x 11 мм, нержавеющая сталь Механизм: Калибр HMC 812 с ручным заводом, частота 18 000 полуколебаний в час/2,5 Гц, запас хода не менее 168 часов; H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Case: 42.3 x 11 mm, stainless steel Movement: Caliber HMC 812 with manual winding, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour/2.5 Hz, power reserve not less than 168 hours; Double drum, Moser teeth for all wheels and gears; modular interchangeable trigger mechanism, Straumann balance spring; gold escape wheel and anchor plug Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds hand with direct drive (stop) perpetual calendar with large date and month, power reserve indicator Leap year cycle indicator on mechanism Price: USD 54,900 / CHF 49,900
JM: Aesthetically, HYT has always been divisive. For this reason, I think it can be difficult to win with this watch, but I think it makes a lot of sense as to why it should be seriously raced.
Aesthetics aside (unlike other parts, they are at least solid and well thought out), the mechanics of the watch were incredible (microfluidics) and the addition of a full calendar and a spherical moon is so close to this type of watch. It’s amazing that it can be a natural disaster. But the implementation of this watch is so perfect that the month and date ring around the huge central lunar phase is so bright, and the cool arched display window hovering above the moon reminds me of many other amazing watches from the past GPHG.
The futuristic design is hard to forget for some, but it truly represents the HYT astronomical calendar at its best, so it deserves some recognition.
GG: If DRT Renault is a legend, then Eric Kudray, designer of the HYT Moon Runner Supernova Blue movement, is a legend. Under the continued guidance of CEO and industry veteran Davide Cerrato and aesthetic direction Paul Clementi, this watch is, in my opinion, far more advanced than previous HYT offerings. The central “blue moon” display surrounded by a date and month ring is eye-catching, and the retrograde liquid hour markers seem to blend into the overall display rather than the mechanical “look at me” gimmick of the past HYT.
MG: For me, Moon Runner is a clear indication that HYT is back, that it’s not just a one-trick pony. Personally, I’m not a fan of watch bands, but I love the integration of the calendar function and moon phases. Well, initially it does. A special mention deserves the power reserve, which, despite other complications, is still impressive – 72 hours.
ED: This is a very original watch with a new improved version of HYT. While his size puts me off, his ingenuity and vision are mesmerizing. I’m still not a big fan of LCDs, but I can see the appeal.
IS: HYT Moon Runner Supernova Blue is one of those innovative out of the box ideas that I love seeing at GPHG and it marks a powerful renaissance for HYT. Despite the brand’s innovative liquid display for displaying the watch, I don’t see it as a rival because of its size: at 48mm, this watch can only be worn on very large wrists.
HYT Moon Runner Supernova Blue at a glance Case: 48 x 52.3 x 13.3 mm, sandblasted titanium Movement: Hand-wound caliber 601-MO by Eric Coudray/PurTEC, capillary liquid hour indication, 72 seconds power reserve hours, 4 Hz / 28,800 vibrations per hour Frequency functions: retrograde hours, minutes, day of the week, month, moon phase display Limited edition: 27 pieces Price: CHF 120,000
JM: The Anywhere’s mechanical predecessor (called the Everywhere) won the Innovation Award at the GPHG 2018 for being an absolutely brilliant watch. But it’s also complex and aesthetically rich, so I can see why it didn’t win the jury that year.
But now Anywhere solves the same problem of delivering sunrises and sunsets around the world, and does it in a better form factor at a (relatively) more affordable price point, and does it in such a sophisticated aesthetic that it looks great on any wrist.
It has been mechanically redesigned but still provides the same information in a clear and simple way. The engineering alone is amazing, but the difficulty is higher than anything else in its class this year. Personally, I think the Only Watch version is still the best, but the standard blue model is so refined that I can’t say it’s worthy of this year’s title.
BS: It was a tough decision, but I chose Krayon Anywhere as my class winner. It’s coming out in 2020, which makes me a little hesitant, but I think it passed GPHG validation for this year’s contest. The idea of ​​a sunrise and sunset clock that can be adjusted to any position and is based on a post and yoke system rather than traditional cams is very clever and, like the complication of the yearly calendar, is one of those “good enough” approaches that doesn’t fit. . Customizing Krayon for early adopters With all the bells and whistles of the Everywhere watch, it does what we really need. I also love the aesthetic of the piece, including the variable day and night ring around the perimeter and its moving sun.
ED: GPHG lists its release date as September 2021, Gary, which I believe makes it legal. During the pandemic, several different versions of the watch were released.
MG: Krayon is a familiar face at GPHG, as its “parent company” Everywhere Horizon has already won an innovation award in 2018. Anywhere has a similar appeal, displaying sunrise and sunset times in a charming manner. All functions of the watch are also very well planned, maintaining good readability without compromising the overall design.
ED: I think it would be stupid to bet against this watch this year, so I’m going to join the choir and choose Krayon Anywhere as my winner. The excellent work of the mechanism alone is worth something, and the combination of excellent elements of the dial does not allow you not to fall in love with it.