Yachting Monthly’s panel of experts come together to give you their best tops for deck improvement
Make sure you check out before leaving France to avoid overstaying in the Schengen area.Credit: Getty
When we review new and used boats at Yachting Monthly, one of the key things our testers are looking at is the deck layout and how the setup can help or hinder potential buyers.Of course, regardless of the deck layout from the factory, you can make improvements to the deck to make your yacht work better for you.
We’ve gathered our team of expert cruisers to give them their top tips for improving a variety of ship types and sailing styles on deck.
To prevent this, my 45ft sloop Mo is equipped with a stainless steel cover that fits under the vent compression ring, making the vent virtually watertight.
I say “almost” because most Dorade boxes have a drain hole in the bottom that can still let in a small amount of water in very harsh conditions, so it’s still a smart idea to tuck a rag into the vent from below.
When at sea, I use the carabiner: it secures the cockpit locker, but it means I can still open it quickly.
The installation of gates on the guardrail made it easier for Algol staff to enter.Credit: Jim Hepburn
After the crew had hip and knee surgery we needed some work on the rails on my Beneteau Evasion 37 Algol.
The guardrail lines must then be shortened and gate closing lines installed on both sides; they are shackled for easy access from a pontoon or dinghy.
Use 6mm x 50mm stainless steel pan heads to screw the door and pillar base sockets through the teak cover rails into the side teak boards for added strength.
Door frames and pillars are from Germany.The ferrules, eyelets and snap shackles used to shorten the guardrail wire are from the UK.
I had to make a simple wire press to hydro-die forge new ferrules onto stainless wire.
William made his own custom bimini because he couldn’t find a bimini that would fit his narrow stern Gladiateur 33.Image credit: William Schotsmans
The gap between the front end of the boom and the rear strut is 0.5m, and the rear of the rear strut needs to be lengthened.
It consists of a stainless steel rod hinged to the rear support, with a welded eye plate at the front for clipping to the top lift.
The top lift goes through a block mounted on the rear support and runs quickly over the push pit.The canvas is attached to the pushrod and two stern struts.
Since its installation 15 years ago, the Bimini has endured an 18-knot headwind and a 40-knot tailwind.
Last year we improved the system with two triangular panels.The cockpit is semi-enclosed with the addition of tenders and small parasols on the davits.
It can be removed in seconds.If there is a storm while mooring, I would untie the bimini and install it above the front hatch.
Swap out part of the protective wire for a wire that can be easily loosened in an emergency.Credit: Harry Deckers
The solution is to make a shackle that can be unfastened, or use a piece of wire to hold the back end of the wire so it can be easily cut.
Installing a fixed VHF in the channel will ensure that you have continuous high power.Credit: Harry Deckers
I prefer a different setup, and I have a fixed VHF in my cabin – so I can listen and communicate on VHF at high power while staying in the cockpit and being able to see what’s going on in my Surround me while sailing.
We have a lovely set of non-waterproof cockpit cushions, but we can’t put them at sea in case they get wet.
They don’t look as good as our fabrics, but they are completely waterproof, dry fast, very comfortable and last for years.
Each mat requires approximately three meters of pipe insulation.Just cut them into seven 40cm lengths and thread the string through the holes in the insulation a few times.
Made from polycarbonate roofing material, the new companion lets more light down.Credit: John Willis
On each trip I installed the “Willis Light Access Door” before departure, which was nothing more than a scrap piece of 6mm polycarbonate roofing material cut to fit the access entry.
It’s been in all conditions up to high winds and stopped it from being blown away when I used a short cord through a hole in its bottom to hold it in place and removed it in high wind conditions.
Since it’s transparent, it provides a lot of light while still providing privacy, and I can also use it to write notes on it with my twill pen.
It costs less than a large glass of wine, and takes about five minutes to measure and cut with a portable puzzle.
Future enhancements?I toyed with the idea of ​​using an 8,, sheet, but I couldn’t even break the 6mm thing, so I don’t think it makes much sense.
A permanent 2m knotted rope makes transfer from boat to yacht easier when inflated.Credit: Graham Walker
We had just landed after 3,000 miles, and with the boat packed, we couldn’t wait to get ashore to that long-awaited pub.
The three of us made it, but the fourth found himself with his feet on the dinghy and his arms on the push pit, and the gap suddenly widened until he finally fell gracefully into the water.
Well, we now have a 2m strong knotted rope permanently attached above the sugar scoop on the OVNI 395.
This gave us something to hold onto as we moved between rolling boats and plummeting tenders.
It can both lower itself and pull itself out of the dinghy, which is helpful if the waves make the transfer difficult – or on the way back from the bar!
The base of the pole is stainless steel (preferably 316) tube the size of my spinnaker pole, which I mount on a sturdy stand on the deck.
I use it to mount my radar antenna as it avoids punching holes in the mast and saves weight.This gives me a 12 mile range, which I’m very happy with.
You can also mount tail lights on poles (to keep them above the flag, which is useful when sailing at night), cockpit or deck lights, and anchor lights.
In this position, the anchor light will see better at shorter ranges, especially when you are anchoring near land, and all the lights are good.
You can also mount the radar reflector on the front of the mast just below the radar so you don’t have to punch unsightly holes in the mast.
In heavy rain aft, the cover can be lowered to isolate the cabin from the elements, while still allowing easy and quick access to the cabin.
There are two horizontal sail slats on the lid to keep it from blowing into the cabin.
It can also be lowered at night or while the crew is sleeping to provide privacy and adequate ventilation.
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